![]() ![]() The light should be shining onto the stencil. It should be tight against the glass or the light will come through and expose at least the edges, if not the whole thing. Tape the stencil and put the shirt/stencil side on the glass. When you look at it from the squeegee side, it should be readable. Once it's dry, put your stencil on the shirt side backwards. You can tell it's dry when you touch it and it doesn't feel tacky. ![]() The screen should be dry within an hour or two. Make sure you coat and dry the screen in a dark room. Near perfection every time.Īgain, not to insult your intelligence (since I was in the same place you are), but you should coat the screen with a thin film on the shirt side, then the squeegee side. Our exposure time is approximately 5 minutes using pink dual-cure emulsion (not what came with the kit). We placed these in a box about 6-8" from the glass. These bulbs are the long, fluorescent ones, about 20" long or so. My partner and I built an exposure unit using 6 UV bulbs (we tried both the plant bulbs and the unfiltered black light bulbs). I had no problems with coating, exposing, and washing out. I use Speed Cleaner first and try to remove it:Ī good scrubbing usually does the trip but sometimes I use distilled white vinegar and the Magic Eraser to help.I also purchased a Speedball kit when I started. Once the emulsion is gone sometimes I still have stubborn ink left behind: Once you see the emulsion start to dissolve away you can spray with water and continue scrubbing until the emulsion is completely gone: I take a paint brush and coat one side with the remover and then flip the screen over and coat the other side as well.Īllow the emulsion remover to soak in exactly 1.5 minutes and then scrub with a nylon brush or scrubber. I use Diazo Emulsion Remover to dissolve the photo emulsion from the screen. Any ink or screen filler will keep the emulsion remover from working. I also use distilled vinegar and a Magic Eraser for stubborn stains. So, if you are finished with an emulsion design and want to reuse a screen here is how you remove the emulsion:īefore I remove any emulsion I remove any excess ink or screen filler that was used to patch up the screen. I keep the following on hand to clean my screens: Note: I tend to use Yudo screens to screen print because they are flat and don’t take up any storage space….however the there is no protection on the sides against flinging your ink out across the table like a larger frame would have so I have to be super careful. Only emulsion remover can remove the design so that the screen can be reused with a different design. The ink can be washed away after use and the design will not wash away. Photo emulsion allows you to screen print very detailed designs over and over again. If you print out a design on transparency paper, place it on top of the screen and expose it to light….the photo emulsion will expose and become permanent on the screen except for where the design blocked out the light. After screen printing the ink can be washed out of the screen and the contact paper still stays in place and can be reused for multiple prints.Įmulsion: Photo emulsion is a substance that you apply to a screen and let dry in the dark. Here’s the difference:Ĭontact paper: I hand cut a design into adhesive paper and apply it to the screen. I get so many questions on how to clean a silk screen I thought I’d do a tutorial on it! There are two types of screens that I use over and over again: the contact paper stencil screen and the photo emulsion screen. ![]()
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